Janmashtami in Udupi: A Cultural Celebration of Colours (Part 1)

This year's Janmashtami in Udupi was an unforgettable experience, especially for someone like me, a Bangalorean with a deep interest in culture and cultural events. The two days I spent in Udupi immersed me in a world of vibrant traditions, where every moment was filled with color, energy, and a deep sense of community.

Growing up, I had mixed feelings about Veeragase—a traditional dance form that combines intense music with daring stunts involving swords. On one hand, I was fascinated by the powerful performances; on the other, the stunts terrified me. But over the years, my fear turned into admiration. Now, I find myself captivated by the vibrant costumes, the energy of the performers, and the rich cultural heritage this dance represents. As I write this, I realize that Veeragase deserves a blog of its own—so stay tuned for that!

But back to Udupi—being in the Parashurama Kshetra, the land of Lord Parashurama, was an incredible experience. As a cultural photographer, I found myself in a paradise of opportunities. The last two days were truly mind-blowing, thanks in large part to my local friend, Sankarshan. With him guiding me, I experienced Janmashtami through the eyes of an Udupi local, and it was nothing short of magical.

While my main intention was to capture the festival through my lens, the moment I was near the final Vitla Pindi, or Mosaru Kudike, I found myself completely absorbed in the atmosphere. The energy, the crowd, the vibrant colors—it all pulled me in. I forgot about taking pictures and just stood there, lost in the experience. It was a moment of pure connection with the culture, something that can't be fully captured in a photograph.

It all began on the afternoon of the 25th. Sankarshan called me, and soon I found myself at his shop, ready to dive into the festivities. Our first stop was to see the preparations for the tiger dance, where performers were getting their bodies painted. As an artist myself, I was mesmerized by the intricate process. The amount of effort they put into the body paint, the hair textures, and the overall look was astonishing. From children to adults, everyone was buzzing with excitement, fueled by an energy that was palpable.

What amazed me even more was how they crafted everything from scratch—the tiger caps, for example, were handmade by the performers themselves. That night, as the music of the thase drums filled the air, the dancers practiced, perfecting their movements. The rhythm was infectious, and even the onlookers couldn't resist swaying to the beat. The night ended with a sense of anticipation for what was to come the next day.

On the morning of the 26th, Sankarshan and I were back at the scene by 6 AM. We were fortunate to witness the pooja, after which the tiger dancers were ready to begin their performances. Suddenly, two people were overcome by the spirit of the tiger, and their furious movements startled the crowd. The situation was intense, but it was quickly brought under control, and the performances began.

Having seen their preparations the day before, I had a deeper appreciation for what these dancers were about to do. I started taking photos and videos, but my attention was soon drawn to a dancer who had collapsed on the floor. He was in a trance, fully possessed by the tiger spirit, and trying to clear space around him. The atmosphere grew tense as people realized what was happening. The scene escalated when he bit another dancer who was trying to restrain him—drawing blood and sending chills down my spine. It was a moment that I’ll never forget, one that truly showed the raw power and intensity of the festival.

This was just the beginning of my Janmashtami experience in Udupi. Stay tuned for Part 2, where the journey only gets better.